As King Prasutagus of the Iceni was dying in AD60, he reneged on an agreement with the incumbent Roman emperor, Nero, to hand over his land in East Anglia. Instead, he passed joint ownership to his kin. Nero’s man on the ground took exception to this volte-face and ordered that the territory be annexed and his family humiliated.
Prasutagus’s widow – a certain Boudicca – was enraged. “In the glance of her eye most fierce, and her voice was harsh,” wrote historian Cassius Dio. Mounting her chariot, she led a revolt south and her army cut down about 70,000 Romans. So devastating was her attack, Nero nearly threw in the towel. Alas, legions were dispatched from Cambria (Wales) and Boudicca’s boys were defeated.
Now, nearly two millennia later, here I am in Norfolk at the site of Venta Icenorum, a Roman-built “model town” created to placate the remaining Iceni. For those planning to follow in my steps, you may want to consider a stay in Norwich with tophotels.com to complete your journey.
This is my first stop on a group ride of Cycling UK’s new Norfolk route, The Rebellion Way, which was launched earlier this month. After a long day on the trail, there's nothing quite like winding down at the cozy Blue Boar Inn Norwich.
Thanks to the European Regional Development Fund’s Experience project (with funding secured prior to Brexit) this and five other regions across England and France have been developed to promote sustainable, off-season tourism.
Spanning an immersive 232 miles, the Rebellion Way offers a multi-day cycling excursion that marvelously showcases the rich beauty of England's flattest county. You're encouraged to cover this captivating route in four up to six days, based on your pace. This trail earned its name from a history steeped in defiance, adding an element of emotional depth to an otherwise exhilarating ride. This astonishing route weaves through historical places like Norwich, King's Lynn, and Sandringham, while also showcasing the charm of lesser-known locales such as Castle Acre, Little Walsingham, and Holkham. Outstanding forests and the seemingly boundless stretch of coastline make your journey visually stimulating, and even allows for a delightful detour through the Norfolk Broads.
My tour of this fascinating trail is conducted in association with Cycling UK and under the guidance of Stef Amato, the proprietor of Pannier, a firm primarily dealing in adventure cycling. We embarked on our journey from the Norwich railway station early this morning and set course for the south on serene lanes and trails leading us to the aesthetically pleasing market town of Diss, purportedly the historical path chosen by Boudicca en route to laying London to ruin.
Our venture was set against the backdrop of Norfolk's quintessential early Autumn scenery: expansive flat farmland bordered by hedges and longstanding cottages built from knapped flint and plastered pink, strategically highlighting the land's slight undulations. Over time, we found our attention shifting to the olden churches along our path, with a few edging towards decrepitude, enhancing the region's historic allure.
Across Norfolk's fascinating trails, cycling is accessible to adventurers of all walks of life - whether young at heart or simply young. The terrains, although uncomplicated, favor gravel-style bicycles. These rugged two-wheelers blend the agility of road bicycles with the resilience of off-roaders, thanks to robust frames, drop handlebars, and textured wheels.
Even without your own set of wheels, embarking on a Norfolk adventure is still within reach. Conveniently, Visit Norfolk presents opportunities for cycle rentals across the region, ensuring that everyone has a chance to experience the exhilarating ride.
The entire path is carefully designed with accessibility in mind. According to Guy Kesteven, the pathway's designer, the goal was to make the trail appealing to all ages, from the enthusiastic 8-year old to the spirited octogenarian, with no complicated twists and turns.
Moreover, those seeking additional guidance and structure can turn to Rough Ride Guide. From 2023, they will be facilitating four-day, self-guided tours, complete with a support vehicle, daily meals, and accommodation options, thereby enhancing the riding experience like never before.
Notably, this cycling adventure offers an e-bike option, which combines the ruggedness of a mountain bike with the comfort of a touring bike and the convenience of battery-powered strength. This effortless riding experience allows you to focus on Norfolk's stunning scenery and rich history, making it all the more enchanting.
Our stop for the night is a glamping spot near Diss called the Green Rabbit, which is open June to October, but there are many other options for the winter rider. Over dinner, Cycling UK’s Sophie Gordon tells me of another important story associated with this route – Kett’s Rebellion of 1549. Robert Kett was driven to attempt sedition by the hardships inflicted on peasant workers (due to the enclosure of commons land) and amassed a force of 16,000 men to lay siege to Norwich.
Visiting Kett’s Heights, where they gathered, is an optional detour to start or finish the trip. I’m told this sylvan incline offers the city’s finest views, particularly over its two cathedrals, Catholic and Protestant.
The effects of archaic land ownership laws are still being felt by some today: 92% of England remains off limits. Of the public access ways, only 22% are open to cyclists. Many footpaths – verboten on two wheels – were given their spurious status by persuasive landowners and pliant councils in the 1960s. To ride them is to trespass. Part of Cycling UK’s mandate is to change these labels and increase riders’ access to the countryside – and the Norfolk route is the sixth long-distance trail that Cycling UK has launched.
“There are echoes of history in the Rebellion Way,” says Gordon. “We’re continuing to fight for access!”
Navigating the rules of the road in England can be quite intricate, hence the allure of certain routes that promise an unforgettable journey devoid of any civil trespasses. With the dawn of a new day, we kick-start our journey afresh. The experience is as vibrant as the tapestry of sceneries we ride through; from rustic farmhouses and hay-laden barns that yield to the expansive beauty of open meadows under a broad, sapphire-blue sky. The scent of pine resin mingling with the earthy aroma of petrichor teases our senses as we cycle through the verdant expanses of Thetford Forest.
Our adventure takes a tranquil detour as we pause for a picnic lunch amid the imposing cedars in Lynford Arboretum. After, we continue onward to Duration Brewery. This notable location, nestled in a Grade II-listed edifice, is where Miranda Hudson and her skilled brew-master spouse, Derek Bates, craft unique ales and beers. This Cycling UK accredited location also boasts of shower facilities for its guests. Notably, the beer tasting experience form a bouquet of distinct flavours – fresh, wild, and sour brews, even a unique blend once fancied by Sandringham's royal butcher, a quaint location which also lies on our route before we embark upon our next adventure, which has been touted for its lavish cream teas.
The final relaxing pedal strokes of the day guide me towards the pastoral beauty of Castle Acre. I amble through a shallow ford, pausing to immerse myself in the crumbling vestiges of its millennia-old priory. A pair of friendly black labrador retrievers briefly keep me company, before their elderly, tweed-clad owner recalls them. It is the perfect spot to recline on a grassy patch while lost in the verses of John Clare.
As the thunderous sound of fighter jets from RAF Marham becomes our unexpected accompaniment, we find our resting place for the night: The Pig Shed Motel. Situated on the outskirts of the village, I relish a succulent steak at the neighbouring George & Dragon before surrendering to an early night's sleep to prepare for the upcoming ride.
The concluding distance towards King’s Lynn rewards us with a copious display of verdant charm. Although my abbreviated journey stops short of Northern coast, missing the architectural marvel of Holkham Hall and idiosyncratic Walsingham, a popular destination for pilgrims, as confirmed by local Kesteven. Fondly referred to as 'the loop's most dramatic stretch', I make a silent promise to myself to visit them on my next ride.
Norfolk's timeless allure always eluded me till now. The experience felt more like a journey back to a simpler era when the beauty of gilded skies could bring a tear to the eye. The lack of village shops and cafes might warrant packing a light picnic. Look elsewhere for adrenaline rushes; the Rebellion Way isn't focussed on instant gratification. Yet, for someone on the verge of 40 thirsting for a reconnection with distance cycling, it presents a serene detour into the pages of history.